Thankfully, I have been to Paris many times and I plan on going many more before my life is over. Paul and I plan on traveling there this year and as the weather warms in North America, it revives, for me, La Ville – Lumiere with it’s perfumed warm nights, great meals with delicious wines, followed by a (drunken) walk around storied cobblestone streets, the Place des Vosges or along the Seine.
I decided to do a listing in no particular order of the things that I love when I visit the famed city. It’s in no particular order (so not a la David Letterman), it’s just my personal favorite things to do when I go and where to stay:
- Rue de Montorgueil: Paul and I stumbled upon this street by ourselves many years ago and ate at this very crowded restaurant called Grille de Rue de Montorgueil for lunch. I went on this very decadent splurge and had a grilled steak with a Roquefort sauce, French fries and a delicious cabernet. (Heart-stopping for sure.) It was on this particular road, a remnant of the famed Les Halles market, that I knew that I needed to come back and rent an apartment because (who knew!) this world-famous street used to be the place for gourmands to buy their lavender herbs from Provence, chickens from Bresse and countless other butcher, cheese shops and produce stands. Literally, just a little north of Georges Pompidou Centre, and going for several blocks, it’s a great place to sightsee, eat and walk.
2. Le Pavilion de la Reine: Quite simply, my favorite hotel in Paris. Parisians “heart” the Four Seasons George V because of its history to the city, but over the years, I feel that the property has lost a bit of its luster. It way too “tony” for me. I want a bit of earthiness, like Marion Cotilliard. Sexy but without the pomp-n-circumstance, hence, the historic Le Pavilion de la Reine which features super cool yet plush duplex suites so that way you really don’t have to unpack your suitcase. It’s just upstairs and you can entertain downstairs. (Of course, if you have someone upstairs…well, never mind…). Additionally, it’s located in the Marais, part of the old Jewish quarter and right across the street from the sublime Place des Vosges.
3. For cheese, we go to Barthelèmy, located on Rue de Bac, on the Left Bank; this cheese shop specializes in hard to find fromage. All the cheeses are aged in their the store’s cellars and sold at their ripeness. They also will package your purchases in a specially sealed bag so you can take it on the plane. Quite frankly, it’s really not that necessary because you can now find a lot of the cheeses stateside but still there is nothing like buying cheese in Paris and then bringing some of it home. It’s a favorite of Connie Borde, a dear friend of ours, who raised her six children in Paris and has a stunning Paris apartment located not far from the shop.
4. Celio: It’s a men’s shop that is hideously inexpensive even with the Euro so high. I purchased three cotton jackets at 39 Euros each which essentially translates to about $60 (per jacket) at the time. Great stuff. It is a chain but very French and well-made. I pick up something every-time I am there. I also picked up a suede jacket for about $110 about five years ago.
(No, he doesn't come with a purchase.)
- Laurie Pike: I rented one of her apartments (Bastille) for a great rate which provided me the opportunity to buy croissants at Paris bakeries, drink espresso, eat amazing roast chicken from Rue de Montorgueil (see number one), gobble French cheeses in Paris, drink rosé with them, and than go out and see what Paris is all about including friends and other sundry characters. We chose this one for no particular reason other than it was really close to a couple of our friends and there work so we could meet them easily. I would do this again in a heartbeat. Matter of fact, if I need to, I might even move to the apartment permanently. That is, if I don’t move to Spain and open my first hotel first. (Just throwing it out there.)
Next week – My additional five on Paris. - BG