Tales of the Stylish Traveler

Taipei by Whirlwind

By Lindsay Katz

 

It is a conundrum that every world traveler must face:  the long layover. That dreadful logistical puzzle… Do I make friends at the airport lounge whilst sampling every colorful cocktail on the menu? Should I be sensible and try to sleep (in the airport – ugh!) with one eye open, clutching my carry-on? Or do I take the plunge and run out in to the city, take a whirlwind tour in under 8 hours? I finally had the guts to make my long layover count in Taipei, en route to Bangkok, and I will never go back to boring airport-bound layovers again!

My boyfriend and I decided we had time for public transportation and hopped on an air-conditioned double-decker bus that sped us away from the airport along a stunningly lush tropical highway. We had landed around 6 AM and the city was still half asleep as we rolled into town. It was amazing to watch the transformation as one dusty store-front (or food stall) after another pulled up its metal door to reveal a bounty of richly colored textiles and steaming plates of food available all along the roadside.

After enjoying a tasty (if slightly odd) breakfast of mini hot-dogs-in-a-croissant-crust and cucumbers (it came highly recommended!) at an adorable café near the Taipei Train station we were free to roam for the next few hours. The heart of the city is beautiful, tranquil and safe. Like so many cities in Asia there is the feeling of constant traffic swirling all around you, but Taipei has a deeply calm undercurrent. Despite our time crunch the afternoon felt long and relaxing as we strolled through the humming downtown streets.

While we were enjoying a lovely afternoon in Taipei, we were technically in the process of a 24 hr flight to Thailand…So we had to cut our visit short and return to the airport. Luckily the food there is delicious, and the entire terminal was dotted with Duty-Free Scotch samples just waiting to temp you in their plastic thimble cups…

People often tell me “that’s not long enough to do anything in _____  <insert fabulous destination here>” But I have learned that any time at all is long enough to have an incredible travel adventure. Step out of the airport, inhale the curious smells, let that exotic air caress your skin, eat the first fried thing available on the roadside! I bet it feels (if ever so slightly) different. And you will leave different, maybe a little better.

 

The Places That I Have Visited

Below, was a new application on Facebook that I thought that I would try out. After doing so, I was very pleased to see that I had visited 20 countries and 135 cities. There really isn't much that impresses me but noticing how much I have actually traveled is, to me, pretty remarkable and something that I am very proud of. Hopefully, in the coming years, I can add to the country list. I really want to go to Istanbul, Greece and Morocco as well as do a little more exploring of South America. (BG)

1. Paris, France
2. Seville, Spain
3. Chiang Mai, Thailand
4. Ubud, Indonesia
5. Mexico City, Mexico
6. Milan, Italy
7. Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
8. New York City, NY, USA
9. Florence, Italy
10. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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The 1st Annual Moveable Feast - an epic feat of gourmet eating and drinking

My husband and I recently embarked on the culinary journey provided by Yountville's Moveable Feast with high expectations and came away feeling relaxed, fabulous and perhaps a few pounds heavier.

I’m not sure exactly why it’s called moveable, other than that you can pick and choose your favorite aspects of the potential feast and make your move. Hotels such as the Bardessono, The Cottages of Napa Valley and Hotel Luca are involved and participating restaurants include Michael Chiarello’s Bottega Restaurant, Bouchon Bakery and Bistro Jeanty. The package deal is put together by the Yountville Chamber of Commerce as an incentive to visit during the off season, and while the weather isn’t quite as pleasant, it is definitely worthwhile because you are able to experience the town authentically, sans tons of tourists.

The beautiful Villagio Inn and Spa acted as our home base and is conveniently located in the darling center of Yountville where lights are strung from massive old trees and chain stores simply don’t exist – at least not on the main drag. Bottega, Bouchon and a plethora of other famous Napa Valley eateries are all within walking distance. The 3-course lunch at Bottega pleased my Italian-born husband; he marveled over the polenta starter and though I thought my belly couldn’t hold anything more; I made room for the outstanding chocolate lava cake that was my dessert. The ambiance in the restaurant also startled us, it’s beautiful, spacious and the open kitchen creates extra entertainment.

We also visited one client, Signorello Estate, which is located on the Silverado Trail. I had been raving about the Enoteca experience and wanted to share it with my husband. The Enoteca entails a sit-down wine and food pairing of gourmet bites and flights as well as a tour of the hilly property overlooking the valley. I’m particularly fond of the local rabbit salad, loaded with chanterelles and a few red grapes, not to mention the wine. The pairing starts off with a Semillon blend and finishes with the Padrone, a fitting tribute to the late Ray Signorello, Sr. and to the ability of the Napa Valley to create phenomenal Cabernet Sauvignon.

Though also not part of the package, we took the time to ride on the Napa Valley Wine Train. Sipping wine while gently swaying in rotating armchairs is a very pleasant way to pass the morning. We selected the afternoon lunch seating, as we had thoroughly enjoyed the Mimosa and Bloody Mary brunch provided by the Villagio Inn that morning. The Wine Train’s pork tenderloin on grilled yams in a peppercorn zinfandel sauce was perfect, as was the trip.

If you are looking for a weekend getaway this is the ideal opportunity. The package is available through the end of February, so get moving.

A Visit to the O.C.

As we turned onto Highway 101 off a local road that winds through dense areas of evergreens, the view from the car cruising along the cliff tops of the Oregon Coast was breathtaking. Waves crash against the rocks and sea foam rests on the sandy shores below, while an incredibly green, lush wooded area lines the hillside. I was amazed at the Coast’s natural beauty and found it quite hard to leave once my weekend in Oregon was over.

 

The coast stretches from Brookings-Harbor all the way up to Astoria. Florence, Oregon is located near the center of the coastline and provides a good base for exploring the area. The nearby beaches are wonderful to explore in any type of weather and large sand dunes sprout from the shore. The beaches are rugged and empty in the winter and not nearly as windy as many might expect. The coastline is an untapped paradise, free of the construction and commercialization that has negatively affected many other beach towns that were once gorgeous.

 

Further up the coast, families can take an elevator down 200 feet, close to sea level, to view the sea lions that inhabit the caves along the coast. The setup allows the sea lions to live undisturbed by patrons of the caves yet provides guests a close enough glimpse into the natural behaviors of these magnificent creatures.

A hike up to the nearby lighthouse is the next item on the agenda, which provides stunning vistas of the shores below. A visit to the old town offers a glimpse into the friendly nature of Oregonians and the demand for locally produced coffee, art and culture.

 

Though I adored the clear, sunny day we had over the weekend, the frequent light rain almost enhances the Oregon experience. Everything seems a little greener and fresher and no Oregonian’s plans are ever interrupted or postponed due to a little drizzle. The relaxed lifestyle here can transport anyone looking to escape for a few days to a tranquil state of mind.

-EH

Las Vegas -- DAY TWO

 

 

We woke up late as its de riguer when staying in Sin City and after a morning workout, we went to have brunch at Society Café Encore, about a 30 minute walk from Wynn Tower to Encore, the newest addition to the Wynn portfolio and the hotel theme is Wynn’s garden to his wife’s (Elaine Wynn) butterflies. (I am not going to explain it, just go there.) Of course, it’s still one roof. It was honored by food and wine critic as one of “The Best New Restaurants, 2009” and the food for brunch was really good. I had the “Oscar” Benedict which was crabcakes and topped with poached eggs, hollandaise and served with grilled asparagus.  Crabcakes can be difficult to create. Depending on the establishment, you can either get really soggy Frisbees from being fried or too much bread in the mix and not enough crab.

 

“This was just right,” said Goldilocks. The cakes were pure crab with hints of chopped red bellpepper, thyme and black pepper formed into luscious mounds topped with egg and perfectly made sauce.

 

Since, it was a late brunch; I went back to the gym for a bit of a refresher and a run. Paul lay on the couch watching the 50 inch flat screen before seeing “The Showgirl Must Go On”.

 

 

For dinner prior to the show, we trekked over to Caesar’s Palace where Bette was located and ate at Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab. It was one of the old school type restaurants of old men in tuxes serving to old men and women drinking Manhattans and martinis. Dark with red banquettes, wooden chairs, and white table cloths, you almost felt that Sophie Tucker, Bette Midler’s alter ego, would be bringing her feathered head-dress to the table and shaking her pom-poms.

 

Paul had the Stone Crab Claws with Drawn Butter and I had the 8 oz Filet. Good. Both cooked well, and Paul kept sucking the legs as if they were Hugh Jackman’s.

 

I always believe that the price should correspond to the level of entertainment that is being presented whether it’s extraordinary service or amazing food. For the price, this was okay but tasty. Would I go back? Probably but I would walk instead of run.

 

 

 

What is there to write about Bette Midler that hasn’t been written? She is quite simply an astonishing performer who at the age of 60-plus years is still running a mile long stage.

 

 

 

 

P!NK made a surprise appearance and forgot the lyrics to “The Rose”. It’s obvious that she is too young to remember when it first came out.

 

Sadly, she retired Sophie Tucker, whom she named her daughter after. At least that is what it seemed like; however, Dolores del Lago was still in a wheelchair and fin attached.

 

I kept some of the gold palettes that rained down from the ceiling at opening to make a collage of the evening. Both Paul and I saved our tickets which weren’t torn and he took an image of the “Love Soph.” I plan on putting it all into one 8x10 frame.

Las Vegas - Day One

Many people have said to me that I am a very fortunate human being. (I am) I don’t have much to complain about and that I, in regards to traveling and dining, have experienced some of the best that the world has to offer. And so, for my birthday present this year (43rd), Paul gifted me with another trip to Vegas complete with tickets for Bette Midler’s last show “The Showgirl Must Go On.”

Now to be clear, I am not a fan of the city; although, this was my second time visiting it in about two years. The last was another birthday excursion to see Cirque du Soleil Show’s “O.” I was underwhelmed by the show and also the casinos. And the buffets. And, the cost. And, the people. And, the smoke. And, the sheer size of the hotels. They are so vast that you never go outside. For example, once you cross the Wynn bridge to the Palazzo, about an hour hike later and past about 15 Louis Vuitton shops, you realize that you are in The Venetian. It’s never day or night, only perpetual dusk (or dawn).

When we saw “O,” we stayed at Wynn Tower Suites and this time was no different. It’s probably the best hotel as well the most quietly luxurious. Once inside the vast atrium of frolicking koi and lush tropical plants, guests go through another set of massive brass doors to arrive at the entrance to the property. The Tower, though housed in the same building as the Wynn Casino, is a separate entity with no slots, poker tables or skimpy uniforms to assault your senses. It has a separate restaurant and pool that are devoted exclusively for the use of Wynn Tower Suite guests.

Paul booked the Executive Suite a large room with a separate sitting and dining area along with two bathrooms, one with a shower and the other with a bathtub. It also had floor to ceiling windows that overlooked the golf course, a waterfall and river that runs through the sporting area. Much nicer than looking at the strip.

It was a quick change before heading down to Daniel Boulud’s Brasserie (the famed restaurateur’s Las Vegas outpost which features the $32 burger, stuffed with short ribs and foie gras). It’s a pretty place situated by the Lake of Dreams, a Steve Wynn diversion of music, moving balls and Pink Floyd’s “The Wall” flowers, menacing but pretty.

We had dinner with Nancy Bialek, of the famed Stags Leap Winegrowers District (www.stagsleapdistrict.com) and her husband, Chris, and they brought along a 1999 Harlan Estate Cabernet that was delicious with the food. Around the table there was the foie gras, Ceaser Salad, Escargots and a Chilled Lobster Salad. For dinner, a Rack of Veal, Steelhead Salmon, Braised Short Ribs and a Sonoma Chicken; quite excellent with a high price point to match.

Unfortunately, the restaurant will be closing soon to make way for a new seafood experience. (Red Lobster, anyone? Joke, Mr. Wynn, just a joke.)

Giant in the Sky

The opportunity to experience Airbus A380 - the largest commercial aircraft currently in service - was one I looked forward to with great anticipation.  Most airports worldwide are not capable of servicing this plane due to its exceptional size and advanced boarding ramp requirements.   
 
Amongst its extraordinary features is the fuselage size - longer than a 747 by just a bit with a wingspan that is wider by more than 10 feet, and, of course, the fact that it has an entire double deck of seats running the full length of the plane, accommodating more than 450 passengers. 

It flies higher and faster than the 747 and in my experience may be the quietest plane in the skies today.  An extraordinary piece of machinery to say the very least.  The opportunity to watch takeoff and landing with the aid of a camera in the tail of the plane can give almost anyone vertigo, but I do recommend the feature.

 
As of today, LAX appears wholly unprepared for the fact that it is hosting this unusual piece of equipment (Sydney Kingsford has this down and should be a model for other airports before the aircraft is cleared for landing).  The check in area at LAX is set up for an economy class cabin the size of a 737 with no other option than to force a check in line that snakes around to the next bank of desks.  Checking in luggage look longer than 45 minutes simply to get through the line.  Security had one person - that's right - one - checking all of the boarding passes for both the A380 and the Air Pacific 747 departing for Fiji at the gate next door - so this created another 1.5 hour bottleneck and once security was behind us, passengers found themselves in the oldest, and most decrepit terminal at LAX featuring one broken down bar/lounge and a single bartender dealing with more than 700 passengers.  It was hardly the world class experience promised when booking one of the first A380 flights available from the U.S.  One woman escorting her 90 year old mother asked a Qantas representative whether a seat might be available during the check in for her mother to wait - and she was told that it would be available for business and first class passengers, but otherwise 'you get what you pay for.'  I thought that the Qantas CEO might be keen on capturing that customer service response.  Quite a shocker, as they say in Sydney.

 
Onboard, service levels didn't really improve.  It was as if this jet were being serviced by a crew treating it as if it were just another 737, though awestruck passengers thrilled to be having a new avaiation experience certainly were not of the same mentality.  Qantas advertisements call out delivering 'The Spirit of Australia.'  If they meant to suggest Australians are lackadaisical, boorish, indifferent and unstylish, they have truly nailed their intentions spot on based on the service delivery on display aboard A380.  My hat does go off to the team of pilots who delivered us safely and on time both to and from Sydney.  It takes a team of four pilots to run the A380 service and they are extraordinary.  Qantas is an outstanding transportation company.  But it is little more than that and should not be confused with a company that is in the hospitality business.  On the way home via Auckland, I saw a new billboard for Air New Zealand entitled "ALLOW US.  Service...its a Kiwi thing."  Qantas helps them make that point quite clear. -DH

The Emperor Who Had No Need for Clothes

Webster’s definition of ‘luxuriate’ is to ‘indulge oneself luxuriously.’  This week, I learned that it is not necessary to sleep on a down-feather bed with 600-thread count sheets to experience it.  Indulgence can be a state of mind and the developers of the Harbin Hot Springs clearly envisioned that theirs would be a place for guests to do more than simply unwind – it would be a place to gain perspective through deep meditation and total immersion into nature – alongside a series of significant and carefully planned soaking pools. Harbin Hot Springs is located just 20 minutes north of the wine country town of Calistoga on the outskirts of the village of Middletown in Lake County.  Calistoga is known for its mudbath treatments but the short journey from Napa into Lake County is best compared with the final step on a journey to Nirvana.  Harbin Hot Springs enables visitors to delve headfirst into total mind and body relaxation.

 

It starts at the front gate – more like a ranger station – where guests pay a fee for the right to be on property.  My total charges came to $25 for 24 hours.  There are a series of cottages and dorm-like accommodations and even domes that are most appropriate for the property. 

Many chose to drive RV campers onto the property.  For my money, no Harbin accommodation would be more satisfying than a do-it-yourself tent. 

The chorus of deer and rabbits appeared amused watching our tent assembly but our reward was swift.  As soon as the tent was completed, we walked down a short path accompanied by the chirping of cicadas and grasshoppers (flashlights required) and began our soaking therapy in the open-air pools which are open to guests on a 24 hour basis. 

 

Conversation is not permitted in the soaking pools and the combination of silence and darkness, water, temperature and touch results in a sharpened sense of self awareness and definition.  Mysteries of life can be revealed in the hand working of simple metal railing.  Stars shining brightly above can appear to chart a life path and camaraderie of fellow men and women sharing a moment in time lend reassurance about the better nature of humanity.

 

Mornings fulfill the promise of birdsong, tasteful chai teas and coffees at the café, a charming library for the reading of philosophy, shops with items to help express spirituality through clothing, jewelry and statuary, massage appointments and courses on yoga and meditation.  A full restaurant also is offered on property and plentiful clean shower and toilet facilities located throughout the campgrounds are most impressive. 

  

The quality of the fresh waters are the primary attraction, along with sauna and steamroom facilities.  The cold water plunge is designed to alternate with a hot pool (115-120 degrees) and the result is an intensity of tingling sensation almost impossible to describe - the impact on changing heart rate promotes a cleansing effect through the body as well. The fig trees and plams intertwine as the aromas of freshly placed flower bouquets adorn altars in each pool facility creating equally sublime sensations for the eyes and the nose.

  

Harbin Hot Springs is a clothing optional facility and the uninitiated may take several hours to adjust to a new reality where human nature is on such naked display.  But it is an overwhelmingly peaceful way of life where all ages, genders and orientations find surprising harmony in a truly non-threatening environment.  Parents are welcome to bring well-behaved children, though the average guest age is clearly more mature.  It is an ideal getaway for lovers and the closest of friends where life bonds ultimately form through the bearing of souls so healing can begin.

 

Harbin Hot Springs is not a luxury property in any traditional sense of the word and the aesthetic very much reflects the values of a generation that came of age in the 1960’s.  But in an era when beauty (and even relaxation) can be exceedingly skin deep, it is miraculous that a place still aspires to help human beings go even deeper in a quest for inner peace - a place where luxury is found in the ability to luxuriate.                                                                                        - DH

Ten Favorite Things About Paris

 Ten Favorite Things About Paris - Part 1

Ever since I saw Funny Face with Audrey Hepburn, Fred Astaire and Kay Thompson as a young boy (okay, young gay boy), I always wanted to travel to Paris with its romantic buildings, sexy writers (Voltaire and Rimbaud) and haute couture fashions.

 

 

Thankfully, I have been to Paris many times and I plan on going many more before my life is over. Paul and I plan on traveling there this year and as the weather warms in North America, it revives, for me, La Ville – Lumiere with it’s perfumed warm nights, great meals with delicious wines, followed by a (drunken) walk around storied cobblestone streets, the Place des Vosges or along the Seine.

I decided to do a listing in no particular order of the things that I love when I visit the famed city. It’s in no particular order (so not a la David Letterman), it’s just my personal favorite things to do when I go and where to stay:

1. Rue de Montorgueil: Paul and I stumbled upon this street by ourselves many years ago and ate at this very crowded restaurant called Grille de Rue de Montorgueil for lunch. I went on this very decadent splurge and had a grilled steak with a Roquefort sauce, French fries and a delicious cabernet. (Heart-stopping for sure.) It was on this particular road, a remnant of the famed Les Halles market, that I knew that I needed to come back and rent an apartment  because (who knew!) this world-famous street used to be the place for gourmands to buy their lavender herbs from Provence, chickens from Bresse and countless other butcher, cheese shops and produce stands. Literally, just a little north of Georges Pompidou Centre, and going for several blocks, it’s a great place to sightsee, eat and walk.

 

 

2. Le Pavilion de la Reine: Quite simply, my favorite hotel in Paris. Parisians “heart” the Four Seasons George V because of its history to the city, but over the years, I feel that the property has lost a bit of its luster. It way too “tony” for me. I want a bit of earthiness, like Marion Cotilliard. Sexy but without the pomp-n-circumstance, hence, the historic Le Pavilion de la Reine which features super cool yet plush duplex suites so that way you really don’t have to unpack your suitcase. It’s just upstairs and you can entertain downstairs. (Of course, if you have someone upstairs…well, never mind…). Additionally, it’s located in the Marais, part of the old Jewish quarter and right across the street from the sublime Place des Vosges.

3. For cheese, we go to Barthelèmy, located on Rue de Bac, on the Left Bank; this cheese shop specializes in hard to find fromage. All the cheeses are aged in their the store’s cellars and sold at their ripeness. They also will package your purchases in a specially sealed bag so you can take it on the plane. Quite frankly, it’s really not that necessary because you can now find a lot of the cheeses stateside but still there is nothing like buying cheese in Paris and then bringing some of it home. It’s a favorite of Connie Borde, a dear friend of ours, who raised her six children in Paris and has a stunning Paris apartment located not far from the shop.

 

4. Celio: It’s a men’s shop that is hideously inexpensive even with the Euro so high. I purchased three cotton jackets at 39 Euros each which essentially translates to about $60 (per jacket) at the time. Great stuff. It is a chain but very French and well-made. I pick up something every-time I am there. I also picked up a suede jacket for about $110 about five years ago.

 

(No, he doesn't come with a purchase.)

5. Laurie Pike: I rented one of her apartments (Bastille) for a great rate which provided me the opportunity to buy croissants at Paris bakeries, drink espresso, eat amazing roast chicken from Rue de Montorgueil (see number one), gobble French cheeses in Paris, drink rosé with them, and than go out and see what Paris is all about including friends and other sundry characters. We chose this one for no particular reason other than it was really close to a couple of our friends and there work so we could meet them easily. I would do this again in a heartbeat. Matter of fact, if I need to, I might even move to the apartment permanently. That is, if I don’t move to Spain and open my first hotel first. (Just throwing it out there.)

Next week – My additional five on Paris. - BG

 

New Zealand: Paradise Found

Disclaimer:  New Zealand is my favourite spot on earth so this blog entry is exceptionally biased.   This is the rarest of nations where the flat out rugged beauty of the land and open kindness of the people is tempered by a most refined lifestyle, thanks to the fusion of British influence alongside the native Polynesian (Maori) culture.  The result is an expression of strong, unique style in every aspect of life, from its hospitality and its graphic designers to its food and wine.  One of my favourite stories on this place comes from the enormously large South African community that has migrated here following the political instability in southern Africa.  Springboks overwhelmingly mourn for the loss of their beautiful homeland when they migrate to far flung countries in Europe and North America.  The only exceptions are those who have moved to New Zealand and feel the warm embrace of a land that is, in many ways, South Africa’s remarkable equal, which is saying much.  I will do a blog entry on Cape Town one day.  Bottom line is when you have a refined nation whose citizens live amongst mindblowing nature, you know that you are experiencing heaven here on earth.

 

The Polynesians who settled New Zealand named it AOTEAROA, or ‘Land of the Long White Cloud,’ as this is what the nation appears to look like when approaching from water.  This is a nation of snow peaked mountains and deep aqua rivers and bays.  Its capital is Wellington, which is a surprisingly stylish city that is first and foremost a creative capital for visual and performance artists and secondly a governmental capital.  It is also a sporty city and the Hurricanes regularly place players on the NZ national Rugby team, The All Blacks (which should have won this year’s World Cup).   As a native of San Francisco, I fell deeply in love with Wellington at first sight – it is the most natural ‘Sister City’ I’ve ever seen and perhaps it will be an official ‘sister’ of Wellington someday.  Among the best visitor experiences of Wellington is the city’s stylish museum – Te Papa (meaning Our Place).  This is the way every museum should be curated – and the New Zealanders “Kiwis” flair for style is on bold display in each and every relevant and vibrant exhibit.

North of Wellington are my two favourite attractions.  The first are the glow worm caves of Waitomo which you visit in a boat guided a Maori tour leader (the picture doesn’t begin to do the experience justice).

 

The second is the Waikato river and its Huka Falls. 

 

The country’s most stylish accommodation is Huka Lodge a fishing lodge found alongside a quiet stretch of the Waikato and it is not to be missed. 

 

Meals are included in the tariff at the Huka Lodge and even to this world traveler, it remains an unrivaled experience to this day.  I mean, if the lodge is sufficient to welcome the Queen of England, it certainly exceeds the highest standards of a left-coast American.  Huka Lodge is located on Lake Taupo, which quite resembles my own Lake Tahoe in Northern California.

 

Further north is the wine region of Hawkes Bay with its art deco capital city of Napier.  My favourite vineyard there is called Sileni, and it is all about the food and wine experience for which New Zealand is a rightful world leader.

The largest city in the country (and the largest Polynesian city in the world) is Auckland, the City of Sails.  I believe the quality of life in Auckland is unrivaled and evenings along the Viaduct are sublime.  I only wish San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf had a fraction of this kind of quality in its daily experience. 

 

My favourite Auckland area attractions include the beaches of Waiheke Island and the Cable Bay Vineyards and restaurant.  In the Northland region, the town of Russell is not to be missed (it was the original capital of New Zealand and a great place to spot dolphins swimming alongside your motorboat).  I also must give credit where credit is due and recognize the gentlemen who own the Orongo Bay Homestead in Russell – one of the nation’s top award winning B&Bs. 

Though this blog may be running long, it has only covered the North Island of this two-island nation and doesn’t begin to capture the deep admiration and passion I have for Aotearoa.  Thankfully, Air New Zealand runs nonstop flights from SFO five days a week (800-262-1234).  The service is as perfectly balanced and high quality as the nation it represents.  I believe their slogan should be ‘When your national bird can’t fly, you’d better have a damn good national airline.’  They do.

 Best not to select the flightlesss Kiwi bird as your airline of choice to New Zealand, or you may never arrive!  -DH