Webster’s definition of ‘luxuriate’ is to ‘indulge oneself luxuriously.’ This week, I learned that it is not necessary to sleep on a down-feather bed with 600-thread count sheets to experience it. Indulgence can be a state of mind and the developers of the Harbin Hot Springs clearly envisioned that theirs would be a place for guests to do more than simply unwind – it would be a place to gain perspective through deep meditation and total immersion into nature – alongside a series of significant and carefully planned soaking pools. Harbin Hot Springs is located just 20 minutes north of the wine country town of Calistoga on the outskirts of the village of Middletown in Lake County. Calistoga is known for its mudbath treatments but the short journey from Napa into Lake County is best compared with the final step on a journey to Nirvana. Harbin Hot Springs enables visitors to delve headfirst into total mind and body relaxation.
It starts at the front gate – more like a ranger station – where guests pay a fee for the right to be on property. My total charges came to $25 for 24 hours. There are a series of cottages and dorm-like accommodations and even domes that are most appropriate for the property.
Many chose to drive RV campers onto the property. For my money, no Harbin accommodation would be more satisfying than a do-it-yourself tent.
The chorus of deer and rabbits appeared amused watching our tent assembly but our reward was swift. As soon as the tent was completed, we walked down a short path accompanied by the chirping of cicadas and grasshoppers (flashlights required) and began our soaking therapy in the open-air pools which are open to guests on a 24 hour basis.
Conversation is not permitted in the soaking pools and the combination of silence and darkness, water, temperature and touch results in a sharpened sense of self awareness and definition. Mysteries of life can be revealed in the hand working of simple metal railing. Stars shining brightly above can appear to chart a life path and camaraderie of fellow men and women sharing a moment in time lend reassurance about the better nature of humanity.
Mornings fulfill the promise of birdsong, tasteful chai teas and coffees at the café, a charming library for the reading of philosophy, shops with items to help express spirituality through clothing, jewelry and statuary, massage appointments and courses on yoga and meditation. A full restaurant also is offered on property and plentiful clean shower and toilet facilities located throughout the campgrounds are most impressive.
The quality of the fresh waters are the primary attraction, along with sauna and steamroom facilities. The cold water plunge is designed to alternate with a hot pool (115-120 degrees) and the result is an intensity of tingling sensation almost impossible to describe - the impact on changing heart rate promotes a cleansing effect through the body as well. The fig trees and plams intertwine as the aromas of freshly placed flower bouquets adorn altars in each pool facility creating equally sublime sensations for the eyes and the nose.
Harbin Hot Springs is a clothing optional facility and the uninitiated may take several hours to adjust to a new reality where human nature is on such naked display. But it is an overwhelmingly peaceful way of life where all ages, genders and orientations find surprising harmony in a truly non-threatening environment. Parents are welcome to bring well-behaved children, though the average guest age is clearly more mature. It is an ideal getaway for lovers and the closest of friends where life bonds ultimately form through the bearing of souls so healing can begin.
Harbin Hot Springs is not a luxury property in any traditional sense of the word and the aesthetic very much reflects the values of a generation that came of age in the 1960’s. But in an era when beauty (and even relaxation) can be exceedingly skin deep, it is miraculous that a place still aspires to help human beings go even deeper in a quest for inner peace - a place where luxury is found in the ability to luxuriate. - DH
